Winter

Today, I tried to describe winter to my co-workers. I think I finally convinced them that falling snow doesn't hurt.

(To be fair, I am pretty sure they were thinking if hail. We then discussed the difference between the two.)

Lomé

At the beginning of last week, I had the opportunity to attend a 3-day conference in Lomé, Togo, with a number of my co-workers. In a matter of about 2 days, they asked me if I'd like to go, a spot opened up, and I had a visa in hand. Funny how fast things can go sometimes! Early on Sunday morning, 9 of us piled into 2 taxis and set out on the 4-hour drive to Lomé. It was good to have my co-worker Blaise with me when I went though customs at the Benin-Togo border--it would have taken me much longer to navigate the different stages on my own!

The focus of the conference was partnership development, specifically how African missionaries can raise support in their local communities rather than relying on external aid (from places like America). There were several main speakers at the conference, including the director of Wycliffe Benin, Daniel. There was also an Irish couple, Myles and Phyllis Wilson, who were there to participate and advise. It sounds like they travel all around the world to give similar training on partnership development and leadership.

With Myles and Phyllis

It was so lovely to get to know them and spend time with them at the conference! They were so kind and willing to share the wisdom they've gained from 40 years on the mission field.

Myles (left) speaks while Lawson (right) translates

There were about 30 people total at the conference, from Wycliffe Benin, Wycliffe Togo, and friends of Wycliffe. It was so interesting to hear everyone discussing the place of missions in African churches and their perspectives on internal support raising. God's people are well-equipped here!

After the conference, we took a walk through one of the main markets in Lomé. It was fun to get out and do a little exploring. I didn't end up getting anything there, because I had already purchased 2 yards of fabric from some women who were selling their crafts at the conference. You can see the pattern in the photo at the top of this post :)

If you're wondering why I don't take more pictures of markets and places outside of my home, it is because some people in this area apparently do not take kindly to having their photo taken. From what I know, it has to do with the Voodoo religion, and they believe that the soul, or part of it, becomes trapped forever in any photo that's taken of them. Among Christians however, people love photos! When I was at a wedding a few weeks ago, the person I was with leaned over during the ceremony and said, "Do you have a camera? Feel free to take photos!" Apparently that's the norm, even though I didn't know the couple at all!

"If God says yes, who can say no?"

Wednesday, en route home from a conference in Lomé

Universal Rules of Femininity

Justine: Your skirt is see-through. You should put something underneath it.
Me: Okay. *goes to fix it and comes back*
Justine: That's better.
Me: Thanks for letting me know!
Justine: Of course. We're girls, that's what we do for each other. You would do the same thing for me.

African or American, all girls understand the Universal Rules :)

Here are two practical things any American can do to help victims of the Ebola virus outbreak in West Africa:

First, and most importantly, you can PRAY. Here are some ideas (not an exhaustive list to be sure, but perhaps a starting point) to help you know how to pray for the situation. Even if you just pick one or two to pray for in the days to come, your prayers will be heard:

• You may have read about the nation-wide lock-down in the country of Sierra Leone. The goal of the lock-down is to a) slow the spread of the virus, and b) identify hidden cases that need to be dealt with, to keep other family members from getting infected. The lock-down started at midnight on Friday (today), and will last until the end of Sunday. Many are doubtful about the potential effectiveness of this effort, but it is underway nonetheless. You can pray for the comfort and compliance of nationals, for the safety of volunteers who will be going door-to-door, and that this effort would be effective in slowing the spread of the virus in Sierra Leone, not cause it to spread faster.
• The start of the school year was postponed in Nigeria. The start date in Nigerian schools has been pushed back to October 13 "to ensure that adequate preventative measures are put in place before students resume." (Nigerian Education Minister Ibrahim Shekarau) Pray that this and other efforts to prevent the spread of the virus would be effective. Pray for students who are now behind on their education, and that the start date would not be delayed further.
• Pray for the economy of affected countries--travel bans are taking their toll.
• Pray for much-needed supplies to make their way to areas that need them. This is becoming increasingly difficult with travel bans.
• Pray for additional medical personnel to aid in affected areas. Many affected areas are suffering because of a huge shortage of trained doctors to help treat patients.
• Pray for the efforts of West African government workers and foreign aid workers to spread helpful information about the recognition and prevention of the spread of Ebola, and for the target audiences to be receptive and responsive to these efforts. These efforts are going on all over West Africa, not just in effected countries.
• Pray for the safety, strength, and stamina for health care workers assisting in the diagnosis and care of the sick.
• Pray for God's comfort for families who have suffered the loss of loved ones.

Secondly, you can easily DONATE towards aid organizations working in the affected areas.
A very helpful link that my brother David found outlines information on a number of fantastic organizations that are giving their aid in areas affected by Ebola. The numbers on that page related to the outbreak are a little out of date, but the information it gives on the aid organizations is pure gold, and I hope you use it to make an informed decision about if and how you would like to give a financial donation towards Ebola aid.

If you had the time to read this blog post, then you certainly have time to do either (but I hope both) of these things. I'm just saying.

P.S. Because the majority of this blog's readers are my personal friends and acquaintances, I should add that there have been zero Ebola cases in Benin or Togo up to this point, but that's no reason to not take this seriously.

The yovo next door

 There aren’t too many white people in my neck of the woods. Especially for younger children, my appearance seems to be the object of intense scrutiny. There are two little girls, Véronique and Priscilia, who sit a few rows ahead of me at my host family’s church. They are 6 and 9 years old. When I look at them in the middle of the sermon and give them so much as a pointed eyebrow shrug, they dissolve into a fit of giggles. I should probably try not to be such a distraction, but it’s pretty stinkin cute. Children that I pass on the street tend to look at me in a shocked and bewildered sort of way, like I’ve just gone and burst into flames. In Cotonou they have a word for white people. If I walk down the street, little kids will stop what they are doing and shout, “Yovo! Yovo!” It’s kind of like when you’re driving about, and from his car seat your little boy exclaims, “Look mom! I see a fire truck!” “Yovo” is just the Fon word for “white person.”

My family’s house is in a very nice neighborhood, across the street from the Beninese first lady’s vacation home, and a few blocks away is the home of the president himself. I have also noted that my neighborhood, with its nice houses, high walls, and the occasional security guard, is home to more yovos than most other places in Cotonou. While I was walking around with Sejes and Lowi, I noticed a white family getting out of their car, speaking in German. I wondered if they were missionaries as well, but I didn’t actually talk to them. How would I start a conversation like that? Hello, ma’am. I notice that you are white. Would you like to be friends? Hmmm…

Most of my house is on the ground floor, but there is a section that has 2 additional floors, plus a staircase to the roof. It is pleasant to climb up there after I get home from work, because the mid-day heat has passed. From there you can look around in every direction.

The house on the left is the first lady's "cabine"

So far I have spent most of my weekdays at the Wycliffe office, but last week I had the opportunity to venture out with Carole to talk with friends of Wycliffe about our current activities. Wycliffe Benin is currently planning to construct a new headquarters that will be able to better serve their needs, they are collecting donations from their supporters in the area to help fund the project. During my first week here, we went to visit the location where construction will take place to pray over the whole process.

Most of the office came out to pray for the future headquarters

Have I mentioned that I love the office where I work?! My co-workers are awesome and so very helpful. It’s nice to have someone by my side when we venture out to get lunch—It tends to catch me off guard when food vendors ask, “How much would you like to pay?” rather than “How much food do you want?” I can’t help but think, What kind of a question is that?? But Pauline or Mariette are happy to help me navigate those conversation, for which I am grateful. It helps to have a friend by my side who can speak Fon and who knows what on earth they’re talking about. ;) We all speak French to one another in the office, but many of my co-workers have also expressed an interest in improving their English. So apparently I’ll be teaching an informal class in the office, which they’re hoping to start that up in the next few weeks. In the meantime, I took the liberty to draw up a little poster to help them start practicing…

It's taped to my office door, workin like a charm ;)

Nothing makes my day quite like seeing Papa Tébé, the office pastor (and the oldest staff member), throw out his hands and say, “What’s up??” I’m glad to see they are having fun with it :D

So far, the average day at the office starts at or a little after 8am. One of my co-workers usually swings by my house to bring me to work. When we arrive, everyone gathers in the meeting room for morning praise and prayer. Then we work until about 10:30 or 11, when there is a half-hour coffee break. From 1pm to 3pm, we are technically off the clock, and most people (including me) use this time to go out and get lunch, and maybe catch a nap. Nothing says “team bonding” like 3 office-mates conked out in the conference room for a good 45 minutes! I think I can get used to that… ;] At 3pm everyone returns to work until 6pm, which is officially the end of the day, although many work later than that.

Paulin is the man I will be working with on the multi-media side of things. Last week he was out of town teaching a computer literacy/proficiency class. This week, he is doing the same thing, but the current class is being held in a church in Godomey (or Godomé), which is a town a few miles west of Cotonou.

There's Paulin at the front, writing on the blackboard.

Godomey is pretty close to Cotonou, so I get to join him this week as a sort of TA. I circulate around to help the participants with their questions, and I help to clean up the equipment afterwards. This is probably the first time I’ve met people my age and older who are learning how to use a computer for the first time. Paulin teaches them how to use Word, PowerPoint, Excel, Access, and the Internet. When he asked the participants what “Internet” meant to them, the first two answers were “a research network” and “communication.” Praise God for all of the doors that will be opened for these people with the new skills they’ve learned!

If you find it hard to imagine life without ever using a computer, my co-workers and host family had a similar reaction when I told them I had never ridden a motorcycle before coming to Africa! Motorcycles are about as integral and necessary for the people of Cotonou as computers are for your average North American. It seems like everyone here rides motorcycles, and now I have too! And I even get a shiney black helmet to show for it! Going to and from work riding on the back of a “moto” is actually one of my favorite parts of the day, and I get to do it (you'll want to sit down for this, mom) every day of the week! Lucky for me—and for everyone else on the road—I don’t think I will be driving one by myself during my time here. :]

As I've gotten to explore Cotonou a bit more, usually during a work-related excursion, it has become clear that in Cotonou, you can be sold anything, anywhere. Last week when I was out to lunch with my co-worker Yvon, a man was walking around the restaurant with a massive roll of TV remote controls. I don't know how else to describe it—just a big roll. It was incredible, probably 2 feet in diameter. Out on the street, if there is a stop light or a traffic controller, there will inevitably also be a group of vendors standing by, ready to weave between the stopped cars and brandish their wares for drivers and passengers to peruse from where they are sitting. The street vending that you see here kind of reminds me of "impulse buys" at the grocery store. You know, the shelf of last minute items that people might decide to buy while they're waiting in line for the check-out. Hm, I hadn't thought of it before, but now that you mention it, I DO need some more gum! But here, in addition to gum, you can also find a new pair of trousers, a replacement tire, a soccer ball, a blender, an Irish wrist watch, a pair of sandals, a broom, fleece blankets (when anyone would use that in this climate is beyond me), trash cans, a power strip, the kitchen sink, and an educational toy for your infant nephew! I wasn't kidding when I said anything. Today, I kid you not, we passed a guy who had a fat puppy in each hand and was holding them up next to people's car windows. My day was officially made. :) Maybe next time I should ask how much it would cost just to cuddle one.

On that note, thank you again for reading! I would greatly appreciate continued prayers for health and safety, for the Beninese government, for continued relationships with my co-workers and host-family, and for the computer literacy class and it's participants. On that last one, please pray specifically that the electricity in that neighborhood would not be cut during the class, as that can put a major kink in the day's lesson.

Until next time!

First update from Cotonou

The plane that would take me to Belgium

Bonjour from Cotonou! What an amazing adventure this has been already. I can’t wait to update you all on some of my highlights. But first, I wanted to let you know that I will be sending out email notifications when I update my blog. If you would like to receive those notifications, feel free to shoot me a short email at kapitchford@gmail.com to be added to my email list. If you got an email regarding this post, then you are on my list (The emails themselves will not contain the update, it will just be a reminder to check my blog)

It has barely been a week since I left the US, and already, I have been bowled over countless times by God’s goodness, faithfulness, and providence. I see him giving me my daily bread’s worth of comfort during a time of relative emotional chaos, and I’m so thankful for the people with whom he has brought me into contact. Here are some details of my experience so far. Feast your eyes, curious cats!

Bon appetit!

My journey to Cotonou involved 3 flights: from Minneapolis to Newark, then to Brussels, and finally to Cotonou. I had a longer layover in Brussels, and used the time to find myself a truly Belgian breakfast.

Admittedly, it was not fresh, but I wouldn’t forgive myself if I passed through Belgium without getting a waffle, no matter how stiff and processed it may be. Another silly tidbit: While I was waiting at the Brussels airport, a voice speaking in accented English gave an announcement over the loud speaker that ended with, “…Please find yourself at Gate 5 immediately.” I laughed to myself at the thought of a crowd of travelers gathering at the same gate to have simultaneous existential crises.

On my flight to Cotonou, I was totally captivated as we passed over the Sahara Desert. I only opened my window for short periods of time to look out, because my window in the plane was facing west—the sunlight coming in made my seat quite warm, and I thought the light would probably disturb my sleeping neighbors. At one point, the person in the seat in front of me noticed me staring at the desert, and we talked about how cool it looked. I told him I had never seen a desert like that in my life, and he was astonished. We started to talk, and he told me that he lived in Belgium, but he was from Cotonou, and he was going to visit his family for 3 weeks. He was happy to talk to me about all the things he loves about Cotonou, which was fun to hear. He was really excited that I was going to be there for a while, and wished me a good stay.

When I passed through customs in Cotonou, I was relieved that nobody asked to search my bags. I went outside and found two of my co-workers, Carole and Olivier, waiting outside with a sign that read “Wycliffe Benin”. Olivier drove us to the house where I am staying for the first month or so. Carole introduced me to my family, and helped me to bring my things to my room, a very comfortable space where there was a bed already made, a desk, and a bathroom. Here’s a picture!

The shade is my friend :)

Isn’t it lovely J Saturday morning, the roosters in the backyard set a new record by crowing somewhere between 3-4am, but you get used to that after a few nights here. I sleep pretty comfortably by now. On the right is a picture of what I see from the door to my room.

I have been in Cotonou for almost a week, and it has been going well. Right now I’m living with a host family. The father, Nestor, is the president of Wycliffe Benin. The mother, Martine, stays at home and takes care of the house and their four daughters (and now me, it seems). The daughters’ names are Sejes (sounds kind of like “say yes”, but you pronounce the “J” lightly. She is 16 years old), Lowi (18), Milda (20), and Justine (30). Martine has been spoiling me with wonderful Beninese food this whole time, but try not to be too jealous. J Despite all of my efforts to research the culture in Cotonou before my arrival, I’m prettymuch as helpless as a toddler. Thankfully, my host family is so welcoming, and they make sure that I am comfortable speaking up when I need something or have a question, which doesn’t sound like a big deal, but it helps so much that they are so reassuring and understanding. For example, on my second night here, I returned to my room to find a spider the size of a small mouse on my bathroom wall. I’m not trying to be dramatic here, I’m trying to accurately describe the size of the spider. I know my parents will chuckle inwardly when they read that, because they know how much I dislike spiders. I came back to the living room, short of breath, and asked my host family what I should do. Two of the sisters were happy to come and take a look. When we came to my room, the little guy had re-hidden itself behind the bathroom mirror. My brave sisters, without even donning so much as a hazmat suit, went in to take care of it. All is well now J

I like spending time with my host family. I like to sit and talk and listen to my host sisters in the back yard while they do the dishes, and they’ve let me help out a few times. At night, it is pleasant to sit inside and watch TV with them. Most things I’ve seen on TV here are in French, so I can follow along if I pay attention. My host family speaks French and Fon to each other. Fon is a language not at all similar to French, but I’ve been picking up a few useful phrases from my host sisters and co-workers.

Since I’ve been in Cotonou (which is admittedly not a long time, so if you’re trying to use this blog post as a research source, you should stop reading immediately), it seems that marriage is a topic that is brought up frequently in everyday conversation. People are curious about marriage customs in the US, and it is interesting to learn about the significance that it holds in Beninese culture and compare the similarities. On Saturday afternoon, I had the opportunity to go to a wedding with the family of Daniel, the director of Wycliffe Benin. What fun!  Perhaps I will have more time to describe that experience in a later post. Afterwards, there was a banquet on the top floor of a tall building in town. We ate some delicious food on a balcony that overlooked the rest of the city as well as the ocean. It was an amazing view!

Obviously, adjusting to this new place will be a process. Here’s how I’ve come to describe it: there are two kinds of “fun” involved in change. There is the adventurous kind of fun that comes with being in an entirely new place and a new living situation, like taking a camping trip to remove yourself from your everyday surroundings. Then there is the fun of becoming familiar with a place and being independent, like when a person finally feels at home on their college campus, knows where to go to get the things they need, knows where they can have fun with friends, and feels like they can finally let their guard down. I am without a doubt still experiencing the first kind of fun, taking in all of the new sights, sounds, smells, bug species, and ways of doing things. The idea of ever feeling familiar and at ease in this city feels like a figment of my imagination at best, and I know that it will take a while for me to feel more at home. But it helps to give my worries to God in prayer and let him remind me that I am here for a reason. I am very thankful for my co-workers who are diligent about asking how I am doing, and reassure me that I can be honest with them. I have been to the Wycliffe office twice this week, and it is already a place I feel good coming back to. I feel thankful to finally have a grip on how internet access works here, for a welcoming family, for ceiling fans, for cold water, and for God's sovereignty over this whole crazy adventure. Allelujah!

I would appreciate your continued prayers for courage and energy as I continue to meet many, many new people, and as I learn what it means to be a humble asset to those around me. Please pray especially for time spent with my family and co-workers, that God would strengthen and deepen those relationships. Pray also for Wycliffe as they are in a month dedicated to literacy and translation, and are doing a lot to raise awareness among the churches in Cotonou on the work that they are doing. Pray that the various project that they carry out would come to fruition in accordance with God's will and timing :)